Answer first

Fake Vacheron Constantin dress watches copy two lines: Patrimony and Traditionnelle. Two movements show up in most of them, a Miyota 9015 and a Chinese automatic with a decorated rotor. Vacheron Constantin builds Patrimony and Traditionnelle cases in 18k gold and platinum. A steel Patrimony at $300 is a fake.

Which references get copied

  • Patrimony Contemporaine, 40 mm, self-winding, reference 85180
  • Patrimony manual wind, 40 mm, reference 81180
  • Traditionnelle, 38 mm, reference 82172
  • Historiques and Malte models, in smaller numbers

Overseas is the sports line. It sits outside this group.

Case metal

Genuine cases are 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, 18k yellow gold, or platinum. Density separates the metals. 18k yellow gold runs near 15.5 g/cm3. Steel runs near 7.9 g/cm3. A gold case weighs about twice what the same case in steel weighs. Fake cases in gold-plated brass feel light and lose plating at the lugs and the crown.

Movement and case height

Calibre 1400 is a manual-wind movement. It measures 20.65 mm across and 2.60 mm thick. Calibre 1120 is an automatic at 2.45 mm thick. Both carry the Geneva Seal. Copies use movements 3.9 mm to 5 mm thick, so the case grows with the movement. A genuine Patrimony 40 mm sits under 9 mm tall. Copies sit at 10 mm to 12 mm. Look at the display back. A real one shows Geneva stripes and polished bevels. A copy shows a stamped rotor and rough perlage.

Dial and hands

  • "VACHERON CONSTANTIN" sits above center, "GENEVE" below it. Letter spacing on copies drifts wide or narrow.
  • The Maltese cross at 12 is applied metal. On copies it is brass with gold plate.
  • Hands on gold models are gold. On copies they are steel with gold flash.
  • Traditionnelle minute tracks are fine. Copy tracks print thick and break at the markers.
  • Date windows on copies show a thicker font and a cut edge with no chamfer.

Caseback, crown, and numbers

Vacheron Constantin engraves the reference number on the caseback and the movement number on the bridge. The Maltese cross sits at the center of the caseback. Copies use shallow laser engraving, misaligned crosses, and reference numbers that do not match the dial layout. The crown carries the Maltese cross in relief. Copy crowns are flat and plain.

Price

Genuine Patrimony and Traditionnelle models list from about $25,000 to over $60,000 in gold. Pre-owned pieces start near $12,000 to $15,000. Copies sell from $150 to $800. That range sits below the gold melt value of a real case, which is the clearest sign.

Checks

  1. Weigh the head. Gold density is about twice steel.
  2. Measure case height. Over 9 mm on a Patrimony 40 mm points to a copy.
  3. Read the printing. Compare letter shapes to factory photos.
  4. Turn the watch over. Geneva Seal, reference number, and movement number must match the model.
  5. Ask for service records. Vacheron Constantin logs each serial.