The Short Answer
If you want a steel Rolex with a fixed 24-hour bezel, the ref. 16570 is the one I would buy. It ran from 1989 to 2011, it wears smaller than the current 42mm Explorer II, and it keeps the proportions that made this a tool watch instead of a showpiece. Prices have climbed a lot, but among Explorer II references it is still the most watch for the money.
The rest of this page compares the 16570 against its own dial and movement variants first, then against the watches buyers actually cross-shop it with. Some are Rolex. Some are not Rolex at all, and that second group is the more interesting comparison.
Replica Rolex 16570 With Oystersteel Band: What to Check Before You Buy
What the 16570 Actually Is
A 40mm stainless case, sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance, and a 24-hour hand that jumps independently of the main time. That last part is what separates it from a plain GMT. You set the local hour when you land without stopping the watch, and the fixed steel bezel tracks a second time zone. Early examples have drilled lugs, which makes strap swapping easy and is a small detail collectors pay attention to.
Polar or black dial
The white "Polar" dial gets the attention and carries a clear premium on the used market. I still think the black dial is the better daily wearer, because it disappears on the wrist and the orange 24-hour hand pops against it. Buy the dial you like, but know that the Polar premium is real and it will follow you on resale.
fake rolex 16570 explorer watch
3185 vs 3186
Earlier production uses the caliber 3185. Around 2005 to 2007 Rolex moved the reference to the 3186, which brought a revised balance assembly and Paraflex shock absorption. Sellers sometimes price late examples as rare. The difference is real, but I would not pay a big premium for it on a watch you plan to actually wear. Condition and service history matter more than the last two digits of the caliber number.
What to check before you buy
- Lume plots and hands should match in color. Mismatched tritium means one of them was replaced.
- Bezel numerals are engraved and filled. Over-polished bezels lose their crispness and cannot be restored.
- Look at the case sides. Original bevels should still be visible. A rounded case means heavy polishing.
- Check bracelet stretch on the 78790. Hollow links wear, and a stretched bracelet is a few hundred dollars to fix.
- Ask about service history. A 3185 that has not been serviced in a decade is a known expense coming your way.
The Options, Ranked
1. Tudor Black Bay Pro
The closest thing to a modern 16570 that exists. 39mm, fixed 24-hour bezel, in-house MT5652, 200m of water resistance. The proportions land much closer to the old Explorer II than the current 42mm Rolex does. Different brand, different history, same idea, and roughly $4,000 new with a warranty.
2. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT
39mm, fixed 24-hour bezel, Sellita-based automatic, around $1,000. It has its own design language and does not pretend to be anything else. If budget is the reason you were looking at a lookalike, this is the honest version of that purchase.
3. Sinn 856 UTC or 857 UTC
Tegimented steel, a UTC hand, and a reputation for being genuinely tough. The look is more instrument than luxury, but as a travel watch that gets knocked around, it holds up better than most.
4. Grand Seiko SBGN quartz GMT
If you want grab-and-go convenience, a high-accuracy quartz GMT with Grand Seiko finishing is a legitimate answer. No service intervals to worry about for years, and the dial work is a step above the price point.
5. Current Rolex Explorer II 226570
42mm, caliber 3285, current production. Buy this if you want to walk into an authorized dealer and want the modern bracelet and clasp. You give up the smaller case and the vintage feel, and you pay a lot more.
On Replicas
I understand the appeal of a cheap lookalike. I still will not recommend one. The movements are usually unserviceable, the cases are not held to the same tolerances, and the finishing does not survive daily wear. A fake 16570 also misses the only thing the real watch has going for it, which is that it is a three-decade-old design that still runs and still gets serviced. If the budget is the problem, a used Tudor or a C63 Sealander GMT buys you a real, serviceable GMT for less than a good fake plus one repair bill. That is the honest answer, even if it is the less exciting one.