What is the Rolex Explorer II 16570?
The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a 40mm stainless steel GMT-style watch made from 1989 to 2011, featuring a fixed 24-hour bezel, a date at 3 o'clock, and an independently adjustable 12-hour hand. It replaced the ref. 16550 and was later superseded by the larger 42mm ref. 216570. Collectors value it for its slim case, clean dial, and two factory dial colors.
Ref. 16570 specs at a glance
- Case: 40mm stainless steel Oyster, 100m water resistance
- Movement: Caliber 3185, later Caliber 3186 (around 2005 onward)
- Crystal: sapphire with 2.5x Cyclops over the date
- Bracelet: Oyster with Oysterlock clasp, 20mm lugs
- Dials: black or white, the white version nicknamed "Polar"
- Production: 1989 to 2011
Which movement is inside the 16570?
Early examples use Caliber 3185, a COSC-certified automatic with a 48-hour power reserve. Around 2005, Rolex moved the reference to Caliber 3186, adding a Parachrom hairspring and revised gear train. Both movements beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour and drive the same 24-hour hand function.
What dial and bracelet variants exist?
Buyers choose between the black dial and the white "Polar" dial, and the Polar version usually commands the higher price. Early watches use tritium lume that ages into a warm cream tone, while later examples use LumiNova or Super-LumiNova. Bracelet references progressed from the 78790 to the 78790A, and the 6 o'clock signature changed from "Swiss" to "Swiss Made" during the run.
Why is the 16570 collectible?
It is often the most affordable way into a Rolex GMT complication, sitting well below GMT-Master pricing. Its 40mm case wears smaller and flatter than modern Explorer II models, which appeals to collectors moving toward vintage proportions. Complete sets with box, papers, and the correct bracelet carry a clear premium over watch-only examples.
How do you spot a counterfeit Explorer II 16570?
Counterfeits usually fail on case finishing, engraving, and lume application rather than overall silhouette. Genuine cases have crisp polished chamfers and defined crown guards, while fakes look soft or over-built in those areas. The movement is the strongest tell, since real 3185 and 3186 calibers have a specific finish and date-change behavior.
- Check the caseback and inner-lug serial and reference engraving depth and font.
- Verify the date magnifies at roughly 2.5x with a clear, flat Cyclops lens.
- Confirm the movement beats at 28,800 vph and matches the 3185 or 3186 layout.
- Inspect the bracelet end links for a tight, flush fit and era-correct clasp codes.
- Have the watch opened and authenticated by an independent watchmaker before payment.
Is it legal to buy or sell a replica Explorer II 16570?
No. Counterfeit watches infringe Rolex trademarks, and selling them is illegal in the United States and most other countries. U.S. Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit trademarked goods at the border, and trafficking in them can carry criminal penalties. Replicas also have no resale value, no factory service support, and no reliable water resistance.
What should you check before buying a used 16570?
Prioritize condition and completeness over a low price, since a cheap example usually signals a redial, a replaced movement, or a fake. Ask for high-resolution photos of the dial, lugs, caseback, and clasp, plus a service history if one exists. A private-seller price meaningfully below recent auction results is a warning sign worth investigating.
Frequently asked questions
What size is the Explorer II 16570?
The 16570 measures 40mm across the case, noticeably smaller than the 42mm ref. 216570 that followed it.
Does the 16570 have a 24-hour hand?
Yes. A fourth hand tracks a second time zone on the fixed 24-hour bezel, which is the defining feature of the Explorer II line.
What is the "Polar" dial?
Polar is the collector nickname for the white-dial 16570. It contrasts strongly with the black dial and tends to trade higher on the secondary market.
How much is a Rolex Explorer II 16570 worth?
Values vary widely by dial color, condition, bracelet, and whether box and papers are included. Check recent auction and dealer listings for the current range rather than relying on older guides.