The short answer
A replica Sea-Dweller 16600 is a copy of a dive watch Rolex made from 1989 to 2008. A good one looks close at arm's length. None of them are a Sea-Dweller. They lose money the moment they arrive, most cannot be serviced with genuine parts, and the depth rating in the listing is sales copy, not a test result. If you want the look on your wrist, a replica gives you that. If you want a watch, buy something else.
What the genuine 16600 is
The reference matters here, because the whole replica market is built around copying specific years and details.
- 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, no cyclops over the date
- Rated to 1,220 m / 4,000 ft, with a helium escape valve on the left case flank
- Caliber 3135 automatic, around 48 hours of power reserve
- Black dial printed "Sea-Dweller" and "1220m = 4000ft"
- Unidirectional bezel with a 60 minute insert, Oyster bracelet 93160A with Fliplock and dive extension
- 20mm lugs, and a case noticeably thicker than a Submariner because of the crystal and seals
It was the top of the Rolex dive line until 2008, when the Deepsea took its place. The appeal was that it had nothing decorative about it. No magnifier, no polished accents worth mentioning, just a thick case and a legible dial.
What the copies usually get right
At a glance, the proportions are close. The 40mm measurement is easy to copy, so the case diameter is rarely the problem. The black dial and bezel insert photograph well, the Oyster bracelet shape is familiar, and the general silhouette reads correctly from a few feet away. That is genuinely most of what people notice.
Where they fall short
Up close, the list gets long.
- Case thickness. Many copies run thick or thin against the real profile, and the case back is often too deep.
- The helium escape valve. On most replicas it is a screw-down plug with no function, or a decoration that does not seal.
- Date window and font. The numerals are the wrong weight or shape, and the wheel can sit off center.
- Crystal height and profile. Real sapphire sits flush in a way that clones frequently miss.
- Crown guards, lug shape, and end link fitment. Gaps at the lugs are the single most obvious tell.
- Bezel action. The click feel is loose and the insert font is slightly wrong, which shows under magnification.
- Lume. Patchy, and it fades fast compared to a genuine dial.
Movements and the "Swiss" label
Most of these watches run a clone of an ETA 2836 or 2824, or a Chinese movement dressed up with engraved bridges. Sellers describe them as Swiss ETA, Swiss made, or Asian high grade. Those terms mean very little. A genuine Swiss ETA 2836 costs more than most complete replica watches sell for, so treat the label as a marketing line. Ask what happens if it stops. The honest answer is that you replace it rather than repair it.
Water resistance: the claim and the seals
Listings routinely quote 100m or more. What you get is a case with rubber gaskets of unknown quality, a screw-down crown that may or may not seat well, and a case back that may not be torqued correctly. I would not shower in one, let alone dive. The 16600 was designed for saturation diving. A copy of it is a costume piece around water.
Price bands and grade names
Terms like AAA, AAAAA, super clone, and Swiss grade are not standardized by anyone. They are seller language. What actually differs between price bands is the case, the dial, the bracelet, and the movement, and those vary between individual watches from the same batch. Two examples of the same model at the same price can be noticeably different. That is the part people underestimate.
Legal and practical risk
Counterfeit watches are infringing copies, and U.S. Customs can seize them on import, which often means the package and the money both disappear. Selling or distributing them carries more serious exposure than owning one. Practically speaking, there is also no warranty, no parts support, and almost no resale market. A watchmaker may refuse to touch it, and if they do, they will not have the correct parts.
Tells to check before you buy anything
- Measure the case thickness against the reference figure, not the listing.
- Look at the lugs from the side. Seamless end links are a good sign, visible gaps are not.
- Check the helium valve. If it does not move and seal properly, the case is not what it claims.
- Read the dial print under a loupe. Fuzzy edges show up instantly.
- Ask for a video of the seconds hand sweeping and the date flipping, not just still photos.
What I would buy instead
If you want a dive watch with real depth capability and a real service network, a Seiko Prospex, a Christopher Ward Trident, or a used Tudor Pelagos all do the job for similar money. A used Longines HydroConquest gets you a genuine Swiss automatic and a warranty history. None of them look like a Sea-Dweller, and that is the trade you are making.