The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 is a 39 mm steel GMT watch. Rolex made it from 1971 to 1985. Replica versions copy the case shape, the fixed 24-hour bezel and the orange 24-hour hand. They do not use a Rolex movement. They carry no Rolex warranty. Rolex does not make or sell them.

Reference 1655 facts

  • Production run: 1971 to 1985.
  • Case: stainless steel, 39 mm, plexiglass crystal.
  • Movement: Rolex caliber 1575, 26 jewels, 19,800 vibrations per hour.
  • Bezel: fixed steel with a 24-hour scale, numerals filled in black.
  • Hand: orange 24-hour hand with an arrow tip.
  • Dial text: the words Explorer II print in orange.
  • Water resistance: rated to 100 m when new.
  • Function: a second time zone read against the fixed bezel. The 24-hour hand sets in one-hour steps with the crown.

Why the Steve McQueen name

Auction notes and collector guides repeat the nickname Steve McQueen. No photo of McQueen wearing a 1655 has been verified. He died in 1980. The nickname grew in the 1980s and 1990s, years after the reference launched.

Dial marks

Rolex changed the 1655 dial over 14 years. Collectors sort them into Mark 1 through Mark 5. Orange text on the Explorer II line appears on original dials. The rail dial name comes from two lines of text that stack in vertical columns. Crown position at 12 and numeral fonts change between marks. A dial from one mark inside a case from another mark is a mismatch.

What replica versions change

  • Crystal: many replicas use sapphire. The original used plexiglass. A sapphire crystal on a 1655 is a visible difference.
  • Movement: Asian 2836-2 GMT and 2813 are common. Both run at beat rates other than the 1575.
  • Case size: sellers list 38 mm to 41 mm. Measure the case and the lug to lug before you buy.
  • Bezel: printed inserts are common. Original bezels have engraved and filled numerals.
  • Lume: new replica lume glows for hours. Original tritium on a 1655 is dim or dead.
  • Date: the magnifier at 3 o'clock can differ in size and shape from the original.

Checks before buying

  1. Ask for the movement name and the beat rate in vibrations per hour.
  2. Ask for case diameter and lug to lug in millimeters.
  3. Ask for the crystal material.
  4. Ask for photos of the actual watch, not catalog images.
  5. Confirm the return window in writing.
  6. Check that the 24-hour hand sets in one-hour steps.

Replica watches are not authentic Rolex products. Rolex does not service them and does not supply parts for them. Resale value comes from the seller, not from Rolex.