The short answer
If the goal is the look of the Explorer II reference 1655, the sound route is a legal homage with a sterile dial or a used genuine example, not a counterfeit carrying the Rolex name. Counterfeits sold as replica watches are trademark infringing goods in the United States, and both importation and resale carry real legal exposure. If you shop that market anyway, the questions that decide whether a watch is wearable are about case size, movement quality, and dial geometry, and those are the same questions you would ask about any homage. This guide covers the original watch, the spec bands that matter, and the traps that cost money.
What the Steve McQueen Explorer II actually is
Rolex introduced the Explorer II in 1971 as reference 1655, a 39 mm steel watch built for cave explorers who spend days underground. The fixed 24 hour bezel and the orange fourth hand let a wearer read day from night. The nickname is a market invention: Steve McQueen wore a Submariner on screen, and the Steve McQueen label attached to the 1655 in Italian collector circles years later. Italian collectors also call it the Freccione, or big arrow, for the oversized 24 hour hand. Later versions (16550, 16570, then the 42 mm 216570 and 226570) share the layout but differ in size, case height, and movement.
What to look for in any Explorer II style watch
- Dial geometry. The 24 hour hand should align with the correct index. The orange finish should be an anodized metal part or a clean lume fill, not a painted plastic stick.
- Case silhouette. Study the lug profile, the crown guards, and the slope of the bezel. Copies often have thick lugs or a bezel that sits flat.
- Bezel function. On the original the bezel is fixed. A bezel that rotates is a design error and a giveaway.
- Movement. An automatic with hacking, hand winding, and a 4 Hz beat rate (28,800 vph) is the floor. A 21,600 vph movement with a stuttering seconds hand feels cheap on the wrist.
- Crystal and lume. Sapphire with anti reflective coating for modern wear, acrylic if you want the 1970s refraction. Lume should be an even fill, not a lumpy dab.
- Bracelet and clasp. Oyster style links should show clean brushing and a clasp that closes with a firm click. Hollow end links feel light and rattle.
Parameter bands
- Diameter: 39 to 40 mm for vintage proportions, 42 mm for the modern 216570 and 226570 look.
- Lug to lug: keep it under 48 mm unless your wrist is over 7 inches.
- Thickness: 12 to 14 mm. Anything past 15 mm wears top heavy and catches cuffs.
- Lug width: 20 mm on the 1655 and 16570, 21 mm on the 42 mm models.
- Power reserve: 38 hours minimum, 70 hours or more for a modern feel.
- Water resistance: treat any claim as marketing until it is pressure tested. 50 m is desk duty, 100 m with a test is swim safe.
- Weight: 120 to 160 g on the bracelet. Under 100 g reads hollow.
Pitfalls that cost money
- Legal exposure. Counterfeit watches infringe trademarks. Importing or selling them in the US can lead to seizure and criminal charges, and a buyer has no recourse if a parcel is stopped.
- No warranty. There is no service network, no parts guarantee, and no resale value. A counterfeit Explorer II is worth what someone else will pay, which is close to nothing.
- Photo versus reality. Sellers use genuine photography. Ask for dated photos with a handwritten note in frame, and still expect a gap.
- Fake Swiss made. The label on a dial says nothing about the movement inside.
- Movement bait. A watch that arrives with a stalled rotor or a rough crown is a paperweight. Test the crown, the date flip, and the hand alignment within the first day.
- Size creep. A 42 mm copy on a 6.5 inch wrist looks like a hockey puck. Measure before you commit.
Legal alternatives
Homage makers build sterile dial versions of the 24 hour steel sports watch look and sell them openly. A used genuine Explorer II, or a modern 39 to 42 mm field watch with a GMT hand, gets you the same read at a glance function without the legal cloud. If the goal is the orange hand and the fixed bezel, an homage at 39 mm with a solid automatic movement delivers the design for a fraction of the risk.
FAQ
Did Steve McQueen wear an Explorer II?
No. He wore a Submariner. The Explorer II nickname came from the collector market, not from the man.
What is the closest size to the original 1655?
39 mm. The 42 mm versions wear larger and sit higher on the wrist.
Are homages with a blank dial legal?
Yes. The problem is the trademark on the dial and the counterfeit trade around it, not the case shape or the layout of the hands.
Can I swim with a replica or homage?
Only if a shop pressure tests it. Claimed depth ratings on unbranded watches are often optimistic, and a leak destroys the movement.
Will it hold value?
No. Counterfeits and most homages drop to near zero on the secondary market. Genuine watches and established microbrands are the only ones with any resale path.