The short answer
No Omega model is known to collectors as "the 3320." The number turns up in two spots: stamped on some quartz movements, and used as a case or catalog reference in sales listings, including replica listings. So a "replica Omega 3320" is mostly a listing term. What you actually receive depends on which factory built it and which movement sits inside.
Omega 3320 Omega Replica Watch: A Comprehensive Guide
Before you send money, ask the seller one plain question: is 3320 the movement number or the case reference? A seller who dodges that question is usually hiding something. This guide walks through what the number likely means, how to read a listing, and where cheap replicas give themselves away.
Why the number confuses buyers
Omega has used numeric calibers across quartz and mechanical lines for decades, and it has used separate numeric references for cases. Listings mix the two constantly, and replica sellers often copy a number off a caseback without knowing which is which. When you search that number, you get a pile of unrelated watches.
Movement stamp vs case reference
- Movement numbers usually appear on the caliber plate or rotor, visible only with the caseback off. Quartz calibers are typically stamped on the plate near the battery.
- Case references usually sit on the inner caseback, sometimes on a hangtag or warranty card.
- A number printed on the dial is almost never either one. That is branding, not identification.
What replica versions of this watch usually are
Most listings carrying a 3320-style number are quartz watches. That is why they cost less than mechanical replicas and why they are so common. Good factories put their budget into the case, crystal, dial printing, bracelet, and crown. The movement is often a Swiss or Japanese quartz, or a Chinese equivalent that keeps time fine but feels nothing like a mechanical caliber.
If a listing claims an in-house Omega movement at a replica price, that claim is false. Nobody is selling a genuine Omega movement inside a replica case.
Questions to ask before buying
- Which movement is inside, and can you send a photo with the caseback removed?
- Is the crystal sapphire with anti-reflective coating, or plain mineral glass?
- What is the case diameter and lug width in millimeters, measured, not copied from a spec sheet?
- Are the gaskets installed properly, and has water resistance been tested or just advertised?
- Can you photograph the dial straight on, in daylight, with no filter?
Where replicas fall short
Dial printing is the first tell. Genuine dials have crisp, evenly spaced text and clean lume plots. Replicas tend to show thick or smeared printing, uneven lume, and a date wheel with the wrong font. Hands are the second tell. Fakes often have slightly off hand lengths and rough edges on polished surfaces.
On quartz versions, watch the seconds hand. If it lands between markers instead of on them, the movement and the dial were not matched properly. Crown threads matter too. A gritty or short-threaded crown will strip within months of regular use.
Price tiers and what they buy
Budget tier gets you a working watch with obvious flaws: hollow bracelet links, printed indices, mineral glass. Mid tier buys better case finishing, a sapphire crystal, and a bracelet that does not rattle. Top tier is where the details tighten up: correct hand shapes, better dial texture, solid end links, and a movement that holds time.
You pay for the case and dial, not for the name on the dial. Spend accordingly.
Care and realistic expectations
Treat any replica as a watch you might get wet, not one you should swim with, no matter what the listing says. Have a local shop replace the battery and gaskets when the time comes. Keep it away from steam and hot water. If resale value matters to you, replicas have none.
Bottom line
Identify what 3320 refers to in the listing, confirm the movement and materials in writing, and judge the watch by the photos rather than the description. That approach protects you whether the number is a caliber, a case reference, or a seller's shorthand for a model that does not exist.