Short answer
A replica IW329028 is a copy of an IWC watch from the 3290 reference block, which covers the Aquatimer Automatic line: steel case, internal rotating bezel, screw-down crown. Copies run from about $120 for an alloy case to $600 or more for steel with a Japanese or Swiss movement. The points that separate a good copy from a bad one are case thickness, bezel action, dial printing, and water resistance testing.
Reading the reference number
IWC builds reference numbers from a model block plus a suffix. The 3290 block is the Aquatimer Automatic. The -028 suffix marks one variant in that block, set by dial color, strap or bracelet, and market. Published spec sheets for the suffix itself are thin, so confirm case diameter, dial color, and bracelet type against seller photos before paying. If a listing shows a 44 mm case or a chronograph sub-dial, it is a different reference.
Replica grades and what they mean
- Low grade, $100 to $200: alloy case, mineral glass, quartz or a low-grade automatic, stamped dial.
- Mid grade, $250 to $450: 316L steel, sapphire or coated mineral, Asian 2824 clone, printed dial.
- Higher grade, $500 to $800: 316L or 904L steel, sapphire with anti-reflective coating, Miyota 9015 or Sellita movement, applied markers, case thickness close to the original.
Grade labels are marketing terms. No body certifies them. Compare measurements and photos, not labels.
Specs to compare side by side
Case diameter. Case thickness. Lug width. Bezel rotation: an internal bezel should turn from the crown at 2 o'clock and click in defined steps. Crystal: flat sapphire with an inner anti-reflective coat. Dial: applied indices, lume color, date window position and font. Caseback engraving depth. End-link fit at the lugs.
Movement matters for feel and service. An Asian 2824 clone beats at 28,800 vph. A Miyota 9015 beats at 28,800 vph with a different rotor sound. Photos through the caseback show finishing and engraving.
Water resistance
Replica cases are not pressure tested at the factory. A 300 m rating on the original says nothing about a copy with unknown gaskets. Do not swim or dive with a replica. A local watchmaker can test to 3 bar or 5 bar for a small fee. Ask for the printout.
Checks on arrival
- Time the beat rate. Look for amplitude above 250 degrees and rate inside plus or minus 15 seconds per day.
- Turn the bezel crown through a full cycle. Feel for grit or a dead spot.
- Check the crown threads. Cross-threading shows as a rough first turn.
- Charge the lume under a lamp, then check it in a dark room. Uneven glow points to hand application.
- Weigh the watch. A steel case in this size lands near 150 g to 190 g with a bracelet.
Cost and legal notes
Replica prices track movement and case finish more than brand name. A $600 copy is not better than a $350 copy on price alone. Ask for a movement photo, a timegrapher printout, and the measured case thickness.
US law treats counterfeit watches as illegal goods. Customs can seize a shipment, and the FTC notes civil and criminal penalties for sellers. Buy with that risk in mind.