The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402 is the original Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet released it in 1972 in stainless steel, with an octagonal bezel, eight hexagonal screws and an integrated bracelet. Any watch sold as a "replica ref. 5402" is an unauthorized copy of that design. It is not made by Audemars Piguet, it carries no factory service or warranty, and trafficking counterfeit goods is a federal crime in the United States under 18 U.S.C. § 2320. No original 5402 has a quartz movement, a 41 mm case or a mineral crystal.
What the reference is
Gérald Genta drew the design in 1971. Audemars Piguet showed the watch at the 1972 Basel fair. It was a steel watch priced near gold watches, which was new at the time. Collectors call the 5402 the "Jumbo" because of its 39 mm case, large for 1972. Production ran from 1972 into the mid-1970s. Audemars Piguet has not published exact production totals, so figures cited online are estimates.
Specifications of an original 5402
- Case: stainless steel, 39 mm diameter, under 8 mm thick
- Bezel: octagonal, held by eight hexagonal screws, white gold on the steel model
- Dial: tapisserie guilloché pattern, date window at 3 o'clock
- Movement: Calibre 2121, an ultra-thin automatic, about 3 mm thick, 36 jewels, 40 hours of power reserve, derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920
- Bracelet: integrated, links taper toward a folding clasp
- Crystal: flat sapphire
Where copies depart from the original
Case sizes on copies run from 40 mm to 42 mm, so the watch sits larger on the wrist. Most copies measure 10 mm to 13 mm thick against the original's sub-8 mm case. The eight bezel screws are steel on most copies, not white gold, and the slots on many copies do not line up with the case edges. Dials are printed, stamped or photo-etched, not engine-turned, so the squares do not catch light at an angle. Movements are outsourced automatics or a regional micro-rotor clone. Original Calibre 2121 movements carry Audemars Piguet engraving, Geneva stripes and a signed rotor.
Legal status in the United States
The Trademark Counterfeiting Act, 18 U.S.C. § 2320, makes it a federal crime to traffic in counterfeit goods. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine for an individual. Trademark owners can also sue under the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1114, with statutory damages of up to $2 million per counterfeit mark for willful use. U.S. Customs and Border Protection seizes shipments at the border, and watches and jewelry rank among the top commodity categories by retail value in those seizures.
What original examples sell for
Prices for an original 5402ST depend on the series letter, dial type, service history and case finish. Auction results land in the tens of thousands of dollars and above. Records differ by sale, and no single price applies across the reference.