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If you are searching for a fake Rolex Explorer 16570, the honest answer is to put the money toward the real watch instead. Counterfeit Explorer II watches are illegal to import in the United States, cannot be serviced by any authorized watchmaker, and lose nearly all of their value the moment you own them. The genuine ref. 16570 is the opposite: it is one of the most affordable steel Rolex sports models on the secondary market, it holds value, and it can be repaired for decades to come. The good news for a cautious buyer is that the 16570 is also one of the easier references to authenticate, because the movement, dial and case details leave few places for a counterfeiter to hide.

What the Ref. 16570 Actually Is

The Explorer II 16570 replaced the ref. 16550 in 1989 and stayed in the catalog until 2011, when the larger ref. 216570 took over. It uses a 40 mm stainless steel case with a fixed 24-hour bezel, a screw-down crown, and a GMT-style fourth hand tied to a 24-hour scale. Two dial families exist: the "Polar" white dial and the black dial. Dials progressed from tritium lume to Super-LumiNova, so early and late examples look noticeably different under a loupe and under UV.

The engine is the caliber 3185 for most of the run, with the updated caliber 3186 fitted toward the end. Both are automatic, run at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and use a jumping local-time hour hand, which is the feature that separates the Explorer II from a standard Datejust or Submariner.

What to Look For on a Genuine Example

  • Case profile: lugs should be thick and even with crisp, unpolished bevels. Rounded or softly polished lugs signal heavy refinishing or a replacement case.
  • Dial lume: tritium dials should be warm cream and no longer glow brightly; Super-LumiNova dials should still charge and fade. Re-lumed dials usually look glossy or uneven under a loupe.
  • Hand stack and date: the GMT hand must sit in the correct order, and the date should snap cleanly around midnight rather than drag.
  • Bezel engraving: the 24-hour numerals are cut cleanly and filled evenly. Soft or shallow engraving is a red flag.
  • Bracelet and clasp: early 16570 examples use the 78790 Oyster bracelet with hollow center links; later ones use the 78790A with solid center links and a different clasp stamp.
  • Serial and reference: reference 16570 should be visible between the lugs, with the case number and dial configuration matching the seller's description.
  • Service history: a documented service with a parts list is worth more than an original box alone.

Specification Bands to Compare Against

Use these figures as a checklist when a listing looks promising. Case diameter sits at roughly 40 mm, thickness near 12.5 mm, lug width 20 mm, and water resistance rated to 100 meters when the seals are healthy. Expect a power reserve in the 48 to 50 hour range on a properly serviced movement. Serial ranges map to production years through the E, F, D, Z, M, V and random-number prefixes, so the case number should be consistent with the dial type and lume material. If a seller cannot explain how those three elements line up, walk away.

Pitfalls That Cost Buyers Money

  • Listings using phrases like "super clone," "1:1," or "Swiss ETA" are describing a counterfeit, not a watch. There is no genuine Explorer II with an ETA movement.
  • Poorly matched dial and movement combinations, such as a late Super-LumiNova dial inside an early case with tritium-era components.
  • Reprinted or third-party paperwork that carries the right reference number but the wrong font, paper stock or date.
  • Heavily polished cases sold as "mint," which erases the defining lug lines and kills resale value.
  • No return window, no movement photos, and no reference to a professional authentication service.
  • Cross-border purchases of counterfeit watches, which can be seized by customs and are not refundable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the 16570 still a good buy?

Yes for buyers who want a wearable 40 mm Rolex sports watch with a real complication. It trades below the Submariner and GMT-Master II of the same era, which keeps it attractive as a first serious purchase.

Polar or black dial?

The Polar dial reads larger and photographs better; the black dial is the more subdued, everyday choice. Both hold value, with early tritium examples typically drawing more interest from collectors.

Caliber 3185 or 3186?

The 3186 has a slightly updated jump-hour mechanism and is found in later production. Either is reliable, but parts availability and service cost favor examples with recent service records.

How do I avoid buying a counterfeit?

Buy from a seller who allows an independent authentication period, insist on movement and macro case photos, verify the serial against the dial type, and have the watch inspected by a qualified watchmaker before the return window closes.

Why not just buy a high quality replica?

Because it is a counterfeit. It cannot be legally imported, no watchmaker of standing will service it, and it has no resale value. The genuine ref. 16570 costs more up front but keeps its money working for you.