The Quick Answer

Buy a fake Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen for its case and bezel, not for its packaging. On this reference the four parts that separate a convincing build from a disappointing one are the 39 mm case shape, the fixed 24-hour bezel with correctly sized engraved numerals, the orange arrow hand, and the dial print. Everything else is easy to get right, and paying extra for a wooden box, a hangtag or a plastic card will not change how the watch looks on your wrist. Keep your expectations honest too: the Explorer II 1655 left production decades ago, genuine examples are vintage collectibles, and a replica is a costume piece rather than an asset. Check your local rules before ordering, because selling or importing counterfeit branded goods is illegal in the United States even where owning one is rarely prosecuted.

Why This Reference Is Hard to Copy

Rolex launched the Explorer II reference 1655 in 1971 as a tool watch for cave explorers and people working underground. The fixed bezel carries an engraved 24-hour scale, so the numerals have physical depth and catch shadow as you tilt the watch. Replica makers who pad print a flat insert produce a bezel that looks wrong from a few feet away, no matter how clean the dial is.

Dial variations matter as well. Collectors break 1655 dials into marks based on lume plot shape, the position of the Explorer II text and the profile of the 24-hour hand. A replica copies one specific dial, and usually copies a photograph rather than a reference example. Look at the minute track and check that the hash marks line up with the printed numerals, and that the spacing between the model text and the depth rating looks calm rather than crowded.

What to Look For

  • Case profile: about 39 mm across with slab sides, short lugs and a flat case band. A listing that says 40 mm or shows polished flanks has the silhouette wrong.
  • Bezel: brushed steel with engraved 24-hour numerals cut deep enough to hold a shadow, and a centered triangle at the top.
  • Hands: the orange arrow hand should reach the outer track and match the bezel scale in length. Thin or stubby hands are the most common flaw.
  • Dial print: compare lume plot shape at each hour and the spacing between the text lines.
  • Crystal and crown: a domed acrylic or a properly profiled sapphire, plus a screw-down crown that sits flush against the crown guards.
  • Movement: a standard automatic is acceptable, but ask which one it is and whether the date changes at midnight or creeps through the evening.
  • Water resistance: treat any claim as marketing until a local watchmaker pressure tests the case.

Parameter Bands Worth Staying Inside

  • Case diameter: 38.5 to 39.5 mm. Anything larger wears like a modern diver and loses the period look.
  • Lug width: 20 mm. A 22 mm strap will not seat in the lug gaps.
  • Thickness: 12 to 13 mm. Much thicker and the watch sits high on the wrist.
  • Case material: 316L stainless steel at minimum, with a brushed finish that matches the case band.
  • Strap or bracelet: 20 mm with curved end links for the period look, or plain leather if you want to hide case flaws and spend less.

Pitfalls That Cost You Money

  • Buying from the first photo you see. Ask for images of the actual watch, close on the bezel and a straight-on shot at twelve o'clock, before you commit.
  • Trusting a brand name on the movement. Ask for the caliber number and search it, because the label means little on its own.
  • Paying for accessories. Boxes, cards and tags add cost, not accuracy.
  • Skipping service. Inexpensive replicas often arrive dry or poorly regulated, so budget for a cleaning and regulation at a local shop.
  • Ignoring import rules. Seized shipments leave you with no watch and no refund, and counterfeit goods can be confiscated even for personal use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did Steve McQueen ever wear a 1655?

There is no documented evidence he did. The nickname came from collectors and dealers long after the reference was discontinued, and McQueen is associated with the Submariner. Treat the name as a marketing label rather than watch history.

What gives a replica away first?

The bezel. Engraved, well-spaced numerals catch light differently from printed ones, and that difference reads at a glance.

Is a replica worth the money?

It is worth it if you want the look on a budget and accept that resale value is close to nothing. It is not worth it if you want a watch a repair shop will gladly service for years.

Should I pay extra for a premium tier?

Put the extra money into a better bezel insert and hand set, or into a pressure test. A plain build with a correct silhouette beats an expensive build with wrong crown guards.

Can I wear one without trouble?

Wearing a replica is a personal choice in most US states. Selling one as genuine, or importing one after a customs seizure, carries real legal consequences under US trademark law.