A fake IW371438 lives or dies on four things: the chronograph movement underneath, the dial furniture and printing, the case proportions and finishing, and the strap hardware. My top pick for anyone studying this reference is a "1:1" grade build running a decorated 7750-based chronograph, because that is the only tier where the two-register layout, the 3 o'clock date and the pusher feel line up with the genuine 3714 family. Everything below explains what to look at, what each tier gets right, and who each one actually suits.

What the IW371438 actually is

The IW371438 belongs to the Portugieser Chronograph 3714 generation: a 40.9 mm stainless steel case, a two-register dial with a 30-minute totalizer at 12 and running seconds at 6, a date aperture at 3, feuille hands, and a 7750-derived chronograph calibre (IWC lists it as the 79350 in this generation). Water resistance is rated at 3 bar, which is a dress-watch figure, not a sports one. Knowing those five facts is enough to grade any replica you are handed, because most fakes fail on at least one of them.

Criterion 1: movement architecture

This is the first thing to check and the hardest thing to fake cheaply. A 7750-based movement beats at 28,800 vph and drives the chronograph through a cam and lever system, so the pushers feel firm with a short, positive click on start and stop. A quartz fake feels like a switch.

Pros of a 7750-based replica

  • Running seconds at 6 sweeps rather than ticks.
  • The 30-minute totalizer at 12 resets to zero with one push of the lower pusher.
  • Case thickness lands close to the genuine 12.3 mm instead of the 10 mm slab of a quartz fake.
  • The date changes with a crisp snap rather than a slow crawl.

Cons and common failures

  • Cheap builds use the subdial at 12 as a 24-hour indicator or a 60-second counter, which is an instant tell.
  • Many low-tier fakes move the date to 4:30 because the base movement dictates it.
  • Decoration on the movement is often printed rather than applied, so it looks flat under a loupe.

Use case: if the watch will be handled by anyone who knows IWC, pay for the 7750 tier. If it is a desk drawer novelty, the movement is the place to save.

Criterion 2: dial printing and hands

Dial work is where mid-tier fakes give themselves away at arm's length. Look at three spots: the brand line under 12, the text block above the 6 subdial, and the gap between the hands and the minute track.

Pros of a well-made dial

  • Applied indices sit proud of the surface with clean, sharp edges and no glue squeeze-out.
  • Printing is crisp under a loupe, with no bleed into the dial finish.
  • Feuille hands are the right length, reaching the minute track rather than stopping short.

Cons and common failures

  • Soft or slightly bold printing, especially on the smaller line above 6.
  • Hands that are gold-toned but too bright, too flat, or roughly finished at the tips.
  • Subdial rings that are stamped with the wrong spacing, so the two registers look unbalanced.
  • Dial colour and hand colour pairings borrowed from a different reference in the 3714 line.

Use case: for office and dinner wear, where the watch is seen at 60 cm rather than under a loupe, dial quality buys you more than movement quality. Spend there first.

Criterion 3: case, lugs and caseback

The 3714 case is a slim, stepped design with long, curved lugs and a polished bezel that catches light in a thin band. Replica cases tend to be a touch thicker and a touch softer on the lug curve.

Pros of a good case

  • Bezel and caseband show a clean transition, with polishing that follows the original geometry.
  • Lug holes and spring bars are positioned so the strap sits flush against the case.
  • Caseback engraving is deep and readable, not laser-etched grey.

Cons and common failures

  • Over-polished edges that round off the lug tips.
  • Shallow engraving and serial formatting that does not match IWC's pattern.
  • If the back is glazed, the movement view is the giveaway: rough perlage, uneven bluing, and screws that sit proud.

Use case: anyone who wears a watch with short sleeves or photographs it will notice the case before anything else. This is the criterion for buyers who care about silhouette.

Criterion 4: strap and buckle

The 3714 was sold on alligator with a signed pin buckle. On a fake, strap quality is where corners get cut last and noticed first, because cheap leather cracks at the lugs within months.

Pros of a good pairing

  • Leather with a real grain and a soft, broken-in hand from day one.
  • A buckle with crisp engraving and correct proportions to the lug width.
  • Stitching that runs straight and even, with no loose tails.

Cons and common failures

  • Stiff, glossy leather that looks stamped rather than tanned.
  • Buckle engraving that is faint or off-centre.
  • Spring bars that rattle in oversized lug holes.

Use case: swap the strap on any replica you buy. A good third-party alligator strap closes most of the visual gap for a fraction of the cost of a higher tier.

Field check you can run in two minutes

  1. Start the chronograph, watch the subdial at 12, and confirm it counts minutes to 30.
  2. Reset and check that both hands snap back to zero together.
  3. Look at the date window position relative to 3 o'clock.
  4. Turn the watch over and read the engraving depth.
  5. Hold it at an angle to the light and look for soft polishing on the lug tips.

Which tier fits which buyer

If you want a watch that survives a loupe and a conversation with an owner, buy the top tier and accept the cost. If you want the look for occasional wear, a mid tier with a strong dial and a strap swap covers you, and skip the movement upgrade. If you want a beater or a travel watch you will not worry about, the entry tier is fine as long as you accept the date position and subdial function will not match the reference. In every case, treat the IW371438 as what it is: a dress chronograph with 3 bar water resistance, so keep it away from swimming pools regardless of what the listing claims.

A word on legality and expectations

Counterfeit watches are illegal to sell in most markets, including the US, and they carry no manufacturer warranty or service support. A replica is a look-alike, not an investment, and no listing should promise that it passes authentication. Judge the watch on the four criteria above, buy from a seller who shows real photographs of the actual piece, and keep the receipt.