A fake IW329113 v2 is the second revision of a replica built to copy the IWC reference IW329113. The pick that comes closest to the original is a v2 batch with a corrected date wheel, deeper caseback engraving, and a documented movement, and those three items plus dial print are the criteria this guide uses. The "v2" tag is seller shorthand. It is not an IWC designation, and it does not promise accuracy, only that something changed between batches. Judge the watch in front of you against the real specification, then run the same checks a watchmaker would use: dial print under a loupe, hand finish, crown action, caseback text, and movement behavior.
Verify the base specification on the brand's own reference page before you compare anything, because IWC reference numbers do not decode into case size, movement, or year from the digits alone.
What the reference number does and does not tell you
IW329113 is written with the IW prefix plus six digits. Within the catalog those digits do not run in a simple sequence, so the string alone will not tell you the diameter, thickness, lug width, crystal type, or movement family. Sellers in the replica trade reuse the reference as a product code, which means two listings with identical titles can point at watches with different case sizes and different movements.
Pros of building a spec sheet first:
- You get hard numbers to measure against: diameter, thickness, lug width, water resistance rating.
- You stop guessing from compressed seller photos.
- You can spot a listing that reuses a reference for a watch that does not match the dimensions.
Cons of relying on the spec sheet alone:
- The official page will not describe what any specific replica batch did.
- Numbers on a page do not cover print quality, finishing, or feel in the hand.
Best for: anyone about to spend money on a listing, before any photo comparison begins.
What the v2 tag actually means
Version numbers come from the replica trade. A v1, v2, or v3 label marks a batch change, not a quality tier. Two sellers can both advertise a v2 and ship watches that share nothing but the name. The changes that usually trigger a new version are the date font, dial print thickness, crystal coating, caseback engraving depth, clasp stamping, and sometimes a movement swap.
Pros of a v2 over an earlier run:
- Dial print is often cleaner than the first batch.
- Date wheel font and window position are frequent fixes.
- Caseback text and engraving depth tend to be revisited.
Cons of shopping by version label:
- Price tends to climb with the number, with no spec sheet behind it.
- Parts from earlier batches may not fit later ones.
- Some sellers relabel old stock as v2 when the first batch sells through.
Best for: buyers who ask for dated photos, a movement shot, and a clear statement of what changed between v1 and v2 before paying.
Dial and printing checks
The dial is where most replicas give themselves away, because print and lume application are hand steps. Ask for a macro photo in daylight with the crystal at an angle to the light.
What a careful build shows:
- Print with clean edges at magnification instead of ink that bleeds into the dial.
- Indices seated on the minute track, all at the same height.
- Lume filled inside the frame, not spilling past it.
- Date sitting centered in the window.
What a rough build shows:
- Print that looks thick or fuzzy under a loupe.
- Applied markers sitting high, low, or tilted.
- Lume with a blotchy surface or a mismatch between hands and dial.
- Date pushed to one side of the aperture.
Best for: buyers who can obtain a true macro image, not a phone shot from arm's length.
Case, crystal, and caseback checks
Case work separates a careful build from a rushed one. Look at the caseback engraving under raking light, check the crystal coating tint, and wind the crown by hand if you can.
Pros to look for:
- Engraving with depth and a font that matches the reference.
- Crystal without a strong blue or purple cast.
- Crown that threads smoothly and seats without grit.
- Serial on the caseback matching the paperwork.
Cons that show up on weak builds:
- Shallow laser etching that disappears at an angle.
- Caseback text with wrong spacing or a missing reference line.
- Crooked lug brushing or polished edges that cut into the case flank.
- A serial that appears on the card but nowhere on the watch.
Best for: buyers who can handle the watch or get a short video showing the caseback and crown under light.
Movement and timekeeping checks
Movement is the hardest part to fake in a photo and the easiest to check in person. If the reference has an exhibition back, finishing and rotor decoration are the fastest tell. If the back is solid, you need a watchmaker and a timegrapher.
Pros of a solid movement:
- Winding feels smooth with no grinding through the crown.
- Rotor turns without rattle when the watch is tilted.
- Rate stays stable across positions.
- Power reserve lands near the figure the seller claims.
Cons of a weak movement:
- Gritty winding and a crown that feels loose in the stem.
- Audible rotor wobble on the wrist.
- Large rate swings between dial up and crown down.
- Power reserve that falls well short of the claim.
Best for: anyone buying in person, or buyers willing to pay a local watchmaker for a timegrapher reading before the return window closes.
Legal and practical reality
Counterfeit watches carry risk that has nothing to do with finishing. Customs authorities in many countries, including the United States, can seize and destroy counterfeit goods at import. The brand will not service, authenticate, or supply parts for a replica, and no legitimate marketplace will list one.
Pros of owning a v2 replica:
- Low cost compared with the genuine reference.
- Wear without the anxiety that comes with a four or five figure watch.
- Access to a look that may be hard to buy at retail.
Cons:
- No warranty, no brand service, no parts support.
- No resale through legitimate channels.
- Shipping seizure risk and no recourse if a parcel disappears.
Best for: buyers who accept all of the above before ordering, and who are not treating the watch as an asset.
Who each path suits
A v2 replica suits the wearer who wants the look, will inspect dial print and caseback engraving before paying, and does not expect warranty, service, or resale value. A genuine reference suits the buyer who wants brand service, documented provenance, and a watch that holds value. A third path suits people who are still deciding: study the official specification, handle a genuine example at a dealer if you can, and buy a loupe and a set of calipers first, because those two tools answer more questions than any seller photo.
Whatever you choose, treat the version number as a claim to test rather than a fact, and confirm the details that matter on the watch in your hands.