Buy the v9 only if three things check out. The inner dive bezel must rotate from the second crown at 4 o'clock and stay locked to the crystal, the case must measure about 42 mm across without the crown, and the movement must be a real automatic with a smooth sweeping seconds hand rather than a battery quartz. If any of those three fail, walk away, because everything else on this watch is cosmetic and cheap to fake.
What the v9 label actually tells you
Version numbers mark batches, not quality tiers. A v9 is not automatically better than a v6. It usually means a newer case mold, a revised bezel assembly, or a different movement supplier. Sellers lean on the number because it sounds like progress. Ask a direct question instead: what changed between this batch and the last one, and can you send a short video of the bezel being turned with the crown? A seller who cannot answer that is selling a number, not a watch.
What to look for before you commit
- Bezel linkage: the outer ring should drive the internal dive scale smoothly through the crown at 4 o'clock, with no grinding and no free play when locked.
- Case size: measure lug to lug and across the case sides. A claimed 42 mm that arrives at 44 mm wears nothing like the original.
- Movement: ask for the caliber name, the beat rate, and the power reserve. A real automatic runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and holds a wind overnight.
- Crown threads: both crowns should screw down with even resistance and seal without wobble.
- Dial print: index alignment at 12, the date window aperture, and the lume color should match across hands and markers.
- Water resistance honesty: nobody pressure tests these at depth. Treat any rating as decoration and never dive with one.
Spec bands to expect on a good v9
Case and crystal
Stainless steel, roughly 42 mm wide and about 14 mm thick, with a domed sapphire crystal and a slightly convex caseback. Brushed tops and polished flanks should meet on a crisp line, not a rounded smear.
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Movement
A Sellita-based automatic with a date, or a close clone of it. Expect around 40 hours of power reserve, hacking, and hand winding. A Miyota-based option is also acceptable if the rotor is quiet and the date flips cleanly at midnight rather than drifting from 11 p.m.
Strap and hardware
Rubber should be supple and smell neutral, with a signed pin buckle or a proper quick release. Stiff, glossy rubber is the fastest tell that the rest of the watch was built to a price.
Common pitfalls
- Buying from a listing with stock photos only. Insist on timestamped photos of the actual unit.
- Paying extra for a "1:1" or "super clone" label. Those are marketing words with no defined meaning.
- Ignoring the bracelet or strap fit. A poorly machined end link ruins the whole look on the wrist.
- Assuming a service will be easy. Local watchmakers often decline replica work, so factor in the risk before you buy.
- Forgetting the legal side. Counterfeit watches can be seized at import, and reselling one while calling it genuine carries real penalties.
FAQ
Is a v9 better than earlier batches?
Not by default. It is newer. Judge the specific unit on the bezel action, the case measurements, and the movement, and ignore the version number otherwise.
How much should a v9 cost?
Prices shift with batches and sellers, so no fixed figure is reliable. Compare several listings for the same batch and treat unusually low offers as a warning.
Can it be worn swimming?
No. Gaskets on replicas are unverified. Rinse it under a tap if you must, and keep it out of the water otherwise.
Should I tell people it is genuine?
No. Wearing a replica is a personal call, but presenting it as an authentic piece to a buyer is fraud and can carry civil and criminal consequences.