Short answer
A fake IW329077 usually gives itself away at the movement and the case back, not the dial. Replica makers copy the front well enough to fool a phone photo. They rarely reproduce the engraved reference and serial numbers at the right depth and typeface, and they almost never fit a genuine in-house calibre with the correct winding feel and power reserve. If you can only check one thing, check what is engraved on the back and what sits behind the sapphire.
Before you start
- A 10x loupe or a phone macro lens
- Bright, indirect daylight, no flash
- Straight-on photos of dial, case back, crown and buckle from the seller
- A watchmaker who can open the case back
How to check an IW329077
- Ask the seller for a straight-on dial photo in daylight, with no flash and no filters.
- Read the dial text under magnification: the IWC wordmark, the SCHAFFHAUSEN line and the AUTOMATIC text should sit level, with crisp edges and no ink bleed.
- Trace the minute track around the dial and confirm the printed markers line up with the applied indices.
- Look at the small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock, then ask the seller to film the reserve hand moving after a full wind.
- Inspect the hands for length, bevel and finish; replica leaf hands are often flat, slightly short, or unevenly finished.
- Turn the watch sideways and study the case profile: lugs, chamfers and brushed flanks should meet cleanly, with no soft edges or polishing compound trapped in the seams.
- Examine the crown for depth of engraving and for a firm, click-free winding action.
- Photograph the case back and compare the engraved reference, serial and material markings against IWC's published specifications for the reference.
- Ask a watchmaker to open the back and identify the calibre, checking the rotor engraving, jewel count and the winding mechanism.
- Weigh the watch on a jeweller's scale and compare the result with the published weight for the reference.
- Check the strap or bracelet markings, the buckle engraving and the spring bar fit.
- Verify the warranty card, box, booklet and any digital passport record against the serial number on the case.
Red flags
- The reference number is printed rather than engraved, or the digits are misaligned.
- The power reserve hand does not move, or moves without the watch being wound.
- The case back is a snap-on rather than a screwed display back.
- The movement is a stock third-party calibre with an engraved cover plate.
- Papers show a serial that does not match the case.
- The price sits far below the current secondary market range for the reference.
- The seller refuses an inspection by a watchmaker.
What replicas get right
Modern replicas of this reference handle the overall proportions, the dial colour and the applied indices well. That is why a photo check alone is unreliable. The giveaways cluster in three places: the finish of the movement, the quality of the engraving, and the completeness of the paperwork set. Spend your attention there.
Final check
Have the watch opened and the movement photographed before money changes hands. A genuine example will show clean finishing, correct markings and a serial that matches the card. Anything that fails that test is a replica, whatever the dial looks like.