Short answer
IWC reference IW328087 sits in the 3280 block, the range IWC uses for Pilot's Watch Automatic models. IWC does not publish a full spec page for every reference in that block, so confirm the case size, dial layout and caliber for IW328087 with IWC or an authorized dealer first. A copy is easier to spot when you know which parts the real watch uses.
Check the price against the source
Counterfeit sellers price a fake at 10 to 30 percent of the secondary market value of the real watch. Pull two or three sold listings for the same reference, note the full set price and the watch-only price, then compare. A new IW328087 at a third of that number is not a bargain. Ask for the seller's purchase date and dealer name. Real owners keep both.
Case, lugs and crown
IWC finishes Pilot's Watch cases with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. On a genuine case the transition lines are sharp and straight, and the brushing runs in one direction. Copies show rounded lug edges, polishing that spills onto brushed flats, and a crown that turns with grit. Screw the crown down and check that it seats flush. Check the gaps at the lugs with the strap off if the seller allows it.
Caseback
Engraving depth is the fastest check. Genuine IWC caseback text cuts into the steel with crisp edges and a consistent depth. Fake engraving looks lasered: shallow, gray and soft at the edges. On models with the Probus Scafusia medallion, the relief is defined and the lettering legible under a loupe. Reference and serial numbers sit in a straight line on the real caseback.
Dial, hands and lume
Look at printed text under 10x magnification. Genuine dial print has hard edges and even thickness on every letter. Fakes show ink spread, uneven spacing, and a date window that sits off center. Lume on a real Pilot's Watch fills the applied markers to the edge. On a copy the lume sits low in the marker or overflows it. Hands should be flat, with clean edges at the tips and no tool marks on the top surface.
Movement and rotor
Ask for a photo of the movement with the caseback removed, or a short video of the rotor turning. IWC finishes its rotors with Geneva stripes and engraved branding. Copies use stock movements with printed or etched plates, colored screws that do not match, and rotor text that sits off center. Winding feel is another tell: a real automatic winds smooth and stops at the hard stop with no spring rattle.
Serial, papers and box
Match the serial on the caseback to the warranty card and the movement. Sellers of fakes often show a card with a printed number and no dealer stamp. Genuine IWC paperwork carries the dealer name, purchase date and reference, and the card number matches the watch. Box quality matters less than paper, but a fake box often has glue lines and a lid that does not sit flush.
Quick checklist
- Reference and serial confirmed with IWC or a dealer
- Price in line with sold listings for the same reference
- Sharp case lines, even brushing, crown flush to the case
- Deep caseback engraving with crisp edges
- Dial print clean at 10x, date centered, lume level with the marker
- Movement photo shows the correct caliber and rotor engraving
- Warranty card stamped and matching the caseback serial
What fakes get wrong
Most copies copy the outline and miss the small parts: crown threads, caseback engraving depth, dial print and movement finish. Spend your checks there first. A five minute look with a loupe and a phone light settles most questions. If the seller refuses a movement photo or a serial check, stop.