Short answer
A fake Calibre de Cartier is a watch that copies the case, dial, and hands of the Cartier Calibre de Cartier line. Cartier did not make it and does not sell it. Replica prices run from $80 to $700. Used genuine steel models sell for $5,000 to $9,000.
Fake Calibre de Cartier 39mm: A Guide to Spotting a Replica
Genuine reference points
Cartier launched the Calibre de Cartier in 2010. The line was the first Cartier collection built around an in-house automatic movement, the 1904 MC family.
- Case: 42 mm steel, about 11 mm thick. A 38 mm version exists for smaller wrists.
- Caliber: 1904-PS MC, automatic, 27 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 48-hour power reserve.
- Layout: date at 3 o'clock. Small seconds at 6 o'clock on many references. Roman numerals and sword hands.
- Chronograph: 1904-CH MC, 42 mm case, pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock.
- Water resistance: 30 m for the steel automatic. The Calibre Diver is rated 300 m.
Reference numbers sit on the caseback. Cartier publishes the number, case size, and caliber for each version on its own site. Check the number before you compare anything else.
Tells on replicas
- Date font. Genuine date printing is thin and sits inside a stepped frame. Many replicas print the numeral large and place it off center.
- Hand finish. Genuine sword hands are polished on the top face and brushed on the sides. Most replicas show one finish across all surfaces.
- Caseback engraving. Genuine text is laser-etched with sharp edges. Replicas use shallow stamps that fade under a loupe.
- Crown cabochon. Cartier fits a blue synthetic spinel. Low-tier replicas use plastic or glass that shows bubbles.
- Bracelet screws. Genuine steel bracelets use screws with flush heads. Replicas use pins or screws that sit proud of the link.
Movements inside replicas
Three-hand replicas carry a Chinese copy of the ETA 2824, a Miyota 9015, or a quartz module. Chronograph replicas carry an Asian 7750 or a Seagull ST19. The 1904-PS MC and 1904-CH MC are Cartier calibers. Cartier does not sell them to third parties. A caseback stamped with one of those codes means the text was copied, not the movement.
How to Identify Fake Calibre de Cartier 40mm Watches
What photos cannot show
Photos do not show beat rate, power reserve, or finish under a loupe. A watchmaker with a timing machine can measure amplitude and rate in minutes. Cartier boutiques do not authenticate watches bought from other sellers. Independent authentication prices vary. Expect $75 to $250 for a written report.
Price and law in the United States
Genuine Calibre de Cartier steel watches list between $6,500 and $12,000 at retail. Secondary prices run lower. Replicas cost $80 to $700, with top-tier examples near the upper end. Trafficking in counterfeit goods is a federal crime under 18 U.S.C. 2320. U.S. Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit watches at ports of entry. One watch for personal use carries lower legal risk than resale, but seizure at the border is possible.