Short answer
A fake Breguet 7787BR is judged on five things: case size and profile, the texture of the guilloche dial, whether the moon phase and power reserve actually work, the movement behind the caseback, and the engraving quality. Replicas usually match the outline. They fail on dial texture and movement. Check those first and the rest of the watch tells you its tier.
What the reference code tells you
Breguet splits references into two parts. The 7787 is the model, a Classique with a moon phase and a power reserve display. The BR suffix is the case metal code for rose gold. BA is yellow gold, BB is white gold, PT is platinum, ST is steel. A seller who advertises a 7787BB in a rose colored case has already mixed up the reference, which is a useful warning sign.
The genuine watch measures 39 mm across, uses the self winding caliber 591 DRL, and carries a silvered gold dial with a hand cut guilloche pattern, Roman numerals, and blued steel Breguet hands. The moon phase sits at 6 o'clock and the power reserve scale runs across the upper dial. Power reserve is roughly 38 hours.
Step by step: how to inspect one
- Measure the case across the bezel without the crown. Anything other than 39 mm means the case was not built to the reference.
- Weigh the head and turn it in your hand. Rose gold has density; gold plated brass feels light and hollow at this size.
- Look at the dial under a loupe at an angle. Hand guilloche shows crisp intersecting lines with tiny burrs where the cutter lifted. Printed or stamped patterns look flat and the lines blur at the edges.
- Set the moon phase and let it run a full cycle. A painted disc with a printed moon is common; a stamped metal disc with sharp edges is the better sign.
- Wind the watch fully and time the power reserve indicator. If the hand never reaches the top of the scale, the reserve module is fake or decorative.
- Turn the watch over. Check the engraving depth on the caseback, the serial placement, and the rotor finish.
- Check the crown action and the hand setting. Gritty winding and slack hands point to a low grade base movement.
Dial tells
- Breguet hands should be thin, blued, and end in a hollow eccentric circle. Painted or thick hands are a downgrade.
- Roman numerals should be printed or applied with even spacing. Odd gaps at 3 and 9 o'clock are common on copies.
- The secret signature on the genuine dial is subtle. A bold or misplaced signature is a tell.
- Subdial printing should be sharp enough to read without magnification.
Movement checks
Most replicas use a Chinese automatic base, often a 2824 pattern, with a bolt on power reserve module. That combination works, but the reserve is short and the moon phase is usually a 24 hour disc painted to look like a lunar cycle. A better tier uses a modified movement with a genuine 29.5 day moon phase gear. Ask for a clear photo of the movement with the rotor moved aside. Finishing tells you more than any description: Geneva stripes that stop at the edge of a bridge, polished screws, and a signed rotor are the marks of a serious build. Genuine 7787 movements carry an individual number, and the caseback carries a matching one.
Red flags
- No movement photos, only stock images from the genuine brand.
- Case sizes listed as 40 mm or 41 mm.
- A price far below the rest of the market for the same tier, which usually means a stock photo and a cheaper watch ships.
- Claims of solid rose gold at a replica price. It does not exist.
Before you pay
- Ask for dated photos of the actual watch, including the caseback and movement.
- Confirm the case measures 39 mm and the lug width matches the strap fitted.
- Ask which movement is inside and how the moon phase is driven.
- Confirm the return window and what condition qualifies.
The 7787BR rewards a slow inspection. Case size, dial texture, working functions, and movement finish cover almost everything that separates a wearable copy from a waste of money.