Quick answer
A fake Ballon Bleu in yellow gold is a steel watch with a gold-colored coating. The case is not 18k gold. Plating runs 3 to 5 microns on most models. Price runs $250 to $600. Solid gold replicas exist and cost $3,000 or more. Weight and hallmarks are the fastest ways to tell them apart.
What yellow gold means on a replica
Cartier sells the Ballon Bleu in 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and steel. The 18k alloy is 75 percent gold by weight. Density is about 15.5 g/cm3. Steel is 7.9 g/cm3. A gold case weighs about twice as much as the same case in steel.
Replica sellers use three coatings:
- Gold plating: 1 to 5 microns of gold over 316L stainless steel.
- Gold wrap: 10 to 20 microns, bonded with heat and pressure.
- Solid 18k gold: rare, built from the same alloy as the genuine watch.
Plating wears at the crown, lugs, and clasp. A 3-micron layer rubs through in 12 to 24 months of daily wear.
Case sizes to check
Cartier makes the Ballon Bleu yellow gold in 33mm, 36mm, and 42mm. Replica cases can run 0.2 to 0.5mm off. Measure with calipers at the 9 to 3 line, not the crown.
Movements used
Genuine Ballon Bleu watches use Cartier calibers 049, 076, and 1847 MC. Replicas use:
- Miyota 9015 (Japan, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph)
- Sea-Gull ST2130 (China, 28,800 vph)
- Hangzhou 6460 (China, 28,800 vph)
- ETA 2892-A2 or clones (Swiss or Asian)
Check the beat rate. A 21,600 vph movement is a low-grade copy. The genuine caliber 049 runs at 28,800 vph.
Dial and crown details
The crown has a blue synthetic spinel cabochon under a gold ring. Replicas use glass or dyed plastic. The fluted crown guard curves with the case. The dial has a guilloche texture in the center and a date window at 3 o'clock on most sizes. Printing on the VII numeral is a known flaw on low-end copies.
Hallmarks and engraving
Genuine 18k yellow gold cases carry the 750 hallmark and the Cartier maker's mark on the caseback and clasp. Replicas etch 750 but the depth is shallow and the font is off. A jeweler can test the metal with X-ray fluorescence in under a minute.
Price ranges
- Low grade: $80 to $150. Quartz or 21,600 vph. Plating under 1 micron.
- Mid grade: $250 to $400. Miyota or Sea-Gull. 3 to 5 microns.
- High grade: $450 to $700. Swiss ETA clone. 5 to 10 microns.
- Solid gold: $3,000 and up. Sold as custom builds.
What to ask a seller
- Case material and plating thickness in microns.
- Movement maker and beat rate.
- Case diameter in millimeters.
- Weight in grams.
- Water resistance rating.
Genuine Ballon Bleu yellow gold 33mm watches carry 30m water resistance. Many replicas have no gasket rating. Do not swim with them.