Quick answer
There is no Cartier Tank Must 28mm in the Cartier catalog. Sellers use that number as shorthand for a small rectangular case. The genuine Tank Must Small measures 29.5 mm lug to lug and 22 mm across, at about 6.6 mm thick. The Large measures 33.7 mm by 25.5 mm at about 7.2 mm thick. Any 28mm listing is an approximation, so ask for the real measurements before you pay.
Why the 28mm Number Shows Up
Replica listings borrow figures from forums, older Tank references, and vendor marketing copy. The Tank Solo Small sat near 34.8 mm by 27.4 mm, which is where 27 and 28 numbers tend to originate. When a listing says 28mm, the seller often means the case is about 28 mm across. That lands between the genuine Small and Large. The gap matters on a narrow wrist. A 22 mm case reads as a dress watch. A 28 mm case reads as a small unisex watch.
What Separates a Strong Replica From a Weak One
Case thickness, dial print, and the crown cabochon drive most of the difference. Thin quartz cases come close to the 6.6 mm genuine profile. Thicker automatic movements push a case past 9 mm, which changes how the watch sits under a cuff. Dial print quality is the second tell. Genuine Cartier printing stays crisp under a loupe. Cheap copies show fuzzy edges, uneven spacing, and a gray cast on a silvered dial. The blue cabochon on the crown is the third tell. Real ones show depth and a clean facet. Plastic substitutes look flat.
How to Vet a Listing Step by Step
- Ask the seller for lug to lug, case width, and thickness in millimeters.
- Ask for daylight photos of the dial instead of studio renders.
- Ask for a close shot of the crown and its cabochon.
- Confirm the movement type and the stated accuracy.
- Ask whether the case back is stamped or engraved.
- Request the strap or bracelet material and the hardware finish.
- Get the return window and refund terms in writing.
- Use a payment method that allows a dispute if the item does not match the listing.
Legal Facts for US Buyers
Counterfeit watches are illegal to import into the United States. US Customs and Border Protection can seize a shipment, and commercial or repeat importation can lead to civil penalties and criminal referral. Selling counterfeits is a separate and more serious exposure. A replica carries no warranty, no service path, and no resale market. If resale value matters, a pre-owned genuine Tank Must holds value in a way no counterfeit can.
Fit and Sizing Notes
The Tank Must is a quartz dress watch. The Small suits wrists from about 5.5 to 6.5 inches. The Large suits wrists from about 6.5 to 7.5 inches. A 28 mm case sits closer to the Large end of that range, so measure your wrist and compare against the genuine dimensions before you order. Lug width matters too. Confirm the strap width matches standard replacements, because an odd size limits your options later.
Bottom line
Treat 28mm as a marketing label, not a spec. Get the three measurements in writing, compare them to the genuine 29.5 by 22 mm Small or the 33.7 by 25.5 mm Large, and weigh the legal and resale facts before you spend.