Calibre de Cartier 42mm: Short Answer
The Calibre de Cartier 42mm is a Cartier automatic watch with a round case, a date at 3 o'clock, and the in-house 1904-PS MC movement. Cartier built it in stainless steel and in gold. Third-party copies exist in the same 42 mm size. Cartier made none of them, and US law bars their import and sale.
Specs of the Cartier Original
- Case: 42 mm diameter. Stainless steel or 18k gold. Crown guards sit on both sides of the crown.
- Movement: Calibre 1904-PS MC. Automatic. 27 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. 48-hour power reserve.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, date.
- Crystal: sapphire front and back.
- Water resistance: 30 m.
- Strap: alligator leather or a steel bracelet, by reference.
- Price: about $7,000 for steel at retail while the model was current.
Cartier has removed most Calibre de Cartier models from its catalog. Cartier lists current references on its own site. Reference numbers and serial numbers on the caseback come from the factory and stay on record there.
What a Replica Is
A replica Calibre de Cartier 42mm comes from an unlicensed maker that copies the case shape, dial layout, and Cartier markings. These builds use third-party movements. Common choices are Chinese automatics such as the Seagull ST2130, which runs at 28,800 vph, and older 21,600 vph units. No replica carries a Cartier warranty, a factory serial, or service history.
Points That Differ
- Movement finish. The 1904-PS MC has engraved rotor and bridge text. Copies show shallow stamps or none.
- Dial print. Font weight of "CARTIER" and the placement of "Swiss Made" are the first tells.
- Cabochon. Cartier uses a blue sapphire or spinel in the crown. Copies use glass or dyed stone.
- Caseback. Engraving depth, reference number, and serial number.
- Measured size. Many copies measure 41.5 mm to 42.5 mm.
- Weight. Steel copies often weigh less than the original on the same strap.
Legal Status in the US
18 U.S.C. § 2320 sets federal criminal penalties for trafficking in counterfeit goods. 19 U.S.C. § 1526(e) bars import of goods that carry a counterfeit mark. The rule covers a single item bought for personal use. US Customs and Border Protection can seize and destroy the package. Cartier, owned by Richemont, holds US registrations for the name and the dial design.
What Buyers Should Know
Cartier service centers do not work on replicas. Independent shops may decline the job for lack of parts. Resale value on the secondhand market is close to zero. A used Cartier original holds a known reference number, and a buyer can check that number with Cartier before purchase.