Answer first
A fake IWC IW323775 almost always gives itself away at the caseback and the movement, not at the dial. Genuine IWC references carry deep, crisply cut engravings with consistent letter spacing, a reference and serial number that match the paperwork, and a movement whose bridges and rotor are finished and lettered to a known standard. Copies usually fail at least two of those four points. Judge the watch in that order: reference data first, engraving second, movement third, dial last.
Prerequisites
- A 10x loupe and a phone with a macro mode
- Digital calipers and a small gram scale
- Official IWC reference photos of the IW323775 for side-by-side comparison
- A watchmaker with a caseback wrench, if the watch is a screw-back
- Any box, warranty card, and service papers the seller provided
Inspection procedure
- Photograph the watch from six angles in flat daylight before you touch it, so you have a record of the condition as received.
- Look up the reference number in IWC's own model data and confirm the stated case size, lug width, and crystal type for the IW323775.
- Measure the case diameter and thickness with calipers and compare the numbers to the official figures, allowing about 0.2 mm for measurement error.
- Weigh the watch head on its own and compare it with a documented genuine example of the same reference.
- Examine the dial text under the loupe and check that the printing is level, matte, and free of bridging between letters.
- Inspect the hands and applied markers for uneven lume fill, sharp edges, and mismatched metal color.
- Check the date window for correct aperture size, clean cut edges, and a disc that sits flush with the dial.
- Read the engravings on the caseback with the loupe and confirm the reference number, serial number, and material stamps are cut, not printed.
- Compare the serial number on the caseback with the number on the warranty card and any service record.
- Have a watchmaker open the case and photograph the movement, rotor engraving, and balance area at high magnification.
- Compare the movement photos with published images of the correct caliber for this reference, focusing on bridge shape, jewel settings, and engraving depth.
- Test the crown and chronograph or time-setting functions for smooth travel, correct click positions, and no lateral play.
- Inspect the bracelet or strap ends, clasp engraving, and spring bar quality against the same reference photos.
- Write down every mismatch you found and rate each one as cosmetic, mechanical, or documentary before you decide.
Common tells on this reference
- Caseback text that is shallow, laser-etched, or filled with dark residue
- Serial and reference numbers that do not appear in any IWC record
- A movement with unpolished bridges, wrong jewel count, or generic rotor lettering
- Dial print that looks glossy or slightly raised under raking light
- Case proportions that are a fraction of a millimeter off, usually thicker
- Papers printed on stock that does not match IWC's card weight and font
What to do when a watch fails
Stop the transaction and put your findings in writing with photos attached. If the watch was already bought, contact the seller in writing within the return window and cite the specific mismatches, not a general suspicion. Report the listing to the platform, and if a counterfeit trademark is involved, forward the details to the brand's anti-counterfeiting contact and to your national customs authority. Keep the watch untouched until the dispute is resolved.
What this check cannot prove
Photo comparison alone will not separate a well-made copy from a genuine watch. Only an authorized watchmaker with the case open, the movement measured, and the serial verified against factory records can give you a defensible answer. Treat any verdict based only on dial photos as provisional.